Side by side

I started making ice cream in July with a Cuisinart ICE-30BC. That sucker's a workhorse. Out of the three machines that I've used, this one took the least amount of time to churn (25-30 mins). One problem: you have to re-freeze the drum between each batch. (Well, this is only a problem if you want to make three batches in one day.)

After borrowing my sister's Lello 4070 Gelato Junior for some heavy churning over my "Winter Break," I realized that I needed to upgrade. I'm the kind of person who researches products for a year before finally buying something, but time was of the essence. So a year of research was condensed into a week, and I narrowed it down to my sister's model and the Cuisinart ICE-100, a new and improved version of the ICE-50BC. I ended up with the latter, but without the help of a side-by-side review. I was surprised (and slightly annoyed) to see that no such thing exists. So, here goes!

The Lello has a 1-quart capacity; the Cusinart has a 1.5-quart capacity. Point for Cuisinart! 

The Lello's motor is attached to the lid, which makes it really hard to clean; the Cuisinart's motor is in the base. This also allows for a bigger opening for mix-ins on the Cuisinart (the one on the Lello is practically useless!). Point for Cuisinart! 

Now's where I start to get nit-picky...

The Lello has a switch that turns on the compressor (aka the power switch) and then a button that turns on the motor. On the Cuisinart, there is one button that turns on the compressor and the motor at the same time. Although neither instruction manual tells you to do this, I like to run the compressor for 5-10 minutes to get the bowl cold before churning. Fortunately, if you press the Cuisinart's compressor/motor button twice, the motor shuts off and the compressor stays on. But that interface is just kind of annoying. Point for Lello! 

Like I said, I chill the bowl before adding the mixture. The compressor on the Cuisinart must have a temperature sensor, because it'll automatically shut off if I leave it for too long and it overfreezes, which is sometimes 5 minutes; sometimes 10. I then have to turn it off and wait a little before turning it back on or else the compressor won't start back up. Point for Lello for not being so finicky. (*Update: If the compressor shuts off, you can still start churning. As soon as it's back at the right temperature, it'll start back up.*)

Both the Lello and the Cuisinart have a timer. I find this feature silly, because there's no way to know exactly how long the churning will take. You can't start the Cuisinart without setting the timer, so I automatically set it to 60 (the highest it will go). When the Cuisinart timer goes off, the churning stops. The timer on the Lello doesn't need to be set, but if you choose to use it, it doesn't shut off automatically, and the beep at the end is not really that loud. So, it's pretty pointless. On both models, I find the timer kind of stupid. So in my opinion, this one's a draw.

Thought they're both about the same size, the Lello's motor on top makes it a weird shape and a little harder to store. Point for Cuisinart.

Finally, though I haven't tried it yet, the Cuisinart comes with a separate paddle that's designed for gelato and sorbet. Supposedly it incorporates air into the mixture differently. Possible but not certain point for Cuisinart. 

Since the Cuisinart is newer, I'd say I made the right choice. For me, the biggest draw was the canister size and the motor being located in the base. But you really can't go wrong with either machine.

Making it mine

I've been talking to my roommate about how much poking and prodding is needed before someone else's recipe becomes your own. David Lebovitz writes that most cookbook authors agree on three rules:

"1. If you’re modifying someone else’s recipe, it should be called 'adapted from'.

2. If you change a recipe substantially, you may be able to call it your own. But if it’s somewhat similar to a publisher recipe, you should say it’s 'inspired by', which means that you used else’s recipe for inspiration, but changed it substantially.

3. If you change three ingredients, you can in most instances call the recipe yours."

I just started working on a Salted Caramel Mascarpone (potentially with dark or white chocolate). I changed Jeni's Salty Caramel recipe, replacing cream cheese with mascarpone, adding chocolate, and changing the amount of corn syrup and vanilla extract. So I'm teetering on the edge of "inspired by" and "mine," one ingredient shy of rule #3.  And that made me wonder -- are there people out there who will make an extra change in a recipe just so they can call it their own? Which then made me realize that, regardless of whether I pass rule #3 or not, I will always be proud to say who/what has inspired me.

Rivers & Tides

When I was a senior in highschool, my boyfriend and I watched the documentary "Rivers and Tides." Ever since, I've been mildly obsessed with Andy Goldsworthy's environmental art, specifically the way it evolves over time. He makes ice sculptures that melt when the sun comes up, big stone cones that get covered when the tide comes in, and leaf formations that get blown away by the wind. Well, my friends, I bring you the Andy Goldsworthy of ice cream flavors.

I hesitate to call this Vanilla Bean w/Caramel Crackle (hence the label on the pint), because the caramel changes. On day one, you have crunchy flakes of caramel. But, by day three or four, it starts to become more of a caramel swirl. Regardless, no matter what day you eat it, it is delicious. So so delicious.

Vanilla Bean w/Caramel Crackle
(adapted from David Lebovitz's Salted Butter Caramel Ice Cream and Jeni's Splendid Ice Cream)

For caramel crackle:
1/2 cup sugar
3/4 teaspoon fleur de sel (or maldon/other high-quality salt)

- Line a baking sheet with a Silpat or parchment paper, or lightly spray the sheet with a non-flavored oil.

- Spread the sugar evenly in a medium saucepan and set over a moderate flame. Leave it be until it shows signs of melting (it will either brown around the edge or become transparent in some spots). At that point, gently stir until all of the sugar has dissolved and you begin to smell it burning ever so slightly (very soon after it's all dissolved).

- This next part should be done quickly. Immediately sprinkle in the salt and pour the caramel onto the prepared baking sheet. Quickly lift the baking sheet and tilt it so that the caramel creates as thin a layer as possible. Set it aside to cool.

- Once cool, use your preferred utensil (I use a combination of my hands and a rolling pin; David Lebovitz uses a mortar and pestle) to break the caramel into small pieces -- the size of large confetti. You can wait to do this part while the ice cream is churning.

For ice cream:
2 cups whole milk
1 tablespoon + 1 teaspoon cornstarch
3 tablespoons whipped cream cheese
1/8 teaspoon fine sea salt
1 1/4 cup heavy cream
2/3 cup sugar
1 1/2 tablespoons light corn syrup
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise and scraped

Before you make the base...
- In a small bowl, mix the cornstarch with 2 tablespoons of milk into a slurry.
- Measure out the whipped cream cheese and sea salt into a medium bowl (if you don't have whipped cream cheese, you can whisk the two together).

Then...
- In a medium saucepan, combine the cream, sugar, corn syrup, vanilla bean pod & innards, and remaining milk and bring to a rolling boil over medium-high heat. While you're waiting for it to boil, fill a large bowl with ice and cold water and set it aside. Boil the mixture for four minutes, keeping an eye on it so it doesn't boil over. Remove from heat and slowly add the cornstarch slurry, whisking constantly.
- Bring the mixture back to a boil, stirring frequently, and boil for approximately one minute, or until it's slightly thickened. Remove from heat and gradually whisk the hot mixture into the cream cheese, starting with a very small amount to make sure the mixture is perfectly smooth. 
- Pour the mixture into a 1-gallon Ziploc freezer bag, and place the bag in the prepared ice bath until fully cooled. This usually takes about 30 minutes, and you'll need to add more ice as it melts. If you don't want to churn the ice cream right away, you can cool the mixture in the fridge overnight.

Finally...
- Discard the vanilla bean pod and pour the mixture into your frozen canister (I do so by cutting a hole in the bottom corner of the bag). 
- Churn according to your machine's instructions. When the ice cream is just about done, add the caramel crackle for the last minute of churning.
- Pack the ice cream into a quart-sized or two pint-sized containers, press parchment paper on top, and seal the container with an airtight lid. After 4+ hours in the freezer, your ice cream will be ready to eat.

From biggest failure to biggest success

The use-'em-or-lose-'em vacation day policy at work left me with a lot of days at the end of this year. Instead of couchsurfing in Europe or visiting friends in DC, I borrowed my sister's self-cooling ice cream maker (mine has a drum that you need to re-freeze), and I've been spending most of my time in the kitchen. I've made chocolate, Mexican chocolate, peanut butter, maple with buttered pecans, lemon with olive oil, and my first batch of waffle cones. My friend came over last night to help get rid of some of the evidence. I gave him a taste tour, from biggest failure to biggest success.

"This one's you're biggest failure?" he asked. "Yes," I said, "It's too chewy." The tasting continued with my nitpicky commentary and, when I asked which he wanted more of, he chose peanut butter -- the one that was the slightest bit too crumbly. While he could see what I was talking about, he said he wouldn't have noticed if I hadn't pointed it out. And, besides, the flavor is ridiculous.

There's a distinct possibility that I'm crazy. My friend Chyna's mom said the peanut butter and Mexican chocolate are perfect as is, especially when paired together. In terms of my chocolate, some people say that chewy ice cream is "highly treasured." And my friend Ian loves my maple pecan so much that he ordered a quart of it. This all may be so. But I'm not just looking for delicious. I'm looking for perfectly delicious. And so, when I repeat these flavors...
...the chocolate won't be as chewy.
...the peanut butter will be smoother.
...the maple pecan will be a little less sweet.
...the Mexican chocolate will have a more flavorful heat.
...the lemon olive oil will stay exactly how it is.

Here's to perfect ice cream, and to the imperfect ice cream still being scoop-worthy.

Where people love ice cream

I was wondering where an ice cream business would be the most successful and decided to ask the Internet. In terms of countries, it looks like the United States is in the lead right now, but reports over the last 10 years show some stiff competition from Australia and New Zealand. Looking more closely at the United States, this infographic pretty much sums it up (and is also a strong indication that I'm not the only one interested in learning about this):

Merci, Pierre Hermé!

Last month, I went to see Pierre Hermé speak at the Harvard School of Design on "The Architecture of Taste." He focused a lot on "flavor themes" and how he takes a theme and translates it into different dessert mediums. For example, ispahan -- a theme of rose, lychee, and raspberry -- looks different in a cake than it does in a macaron, than it does as nougat (see here).

Whenever he mentioned a new theme, I of course thought about what it would look like as an ice cream...wasabi and grapefruit; mascarpone, caramel, and amber; grapefruit, cloves, and nutmeg; peach, rose, and cumin. I want to be in his brain. 

He let me peek in there a little when he talked about how he's constantly being inspired by things he randomly encounters; the combination of grapefruit and cloves came from a perfume he had smelled. And so, since hearing Hermé, despite whether I've been looking for inspiration or not, I've been finding it just about everywhere -- at a candle shop in Union Square's holiday market; in a spice catalog a friend sent me; at farmers markets, restaurants, and even at CVS (St. Ives "Invigorating Apricot Scrub" also has corn and walnut in it). And, of course, the inspiration I found through attending his talk...

Two things that I left the event wanting to try:

- Meringue either mixed in or as a topping to almond ice cream, inspired by his macarons.

- Stroopwafels either as a mix-in or an ice cream sandwich, inspired by a picture of his liege. 

Oh, and I really can't talk about this event without trying to make your mouth water the way mine did when a plate of four desserts were set down in front of me. 

That one in the back left had candied grapefruit hiding in the middle of the cream filling. The soft spongey bottom of the lemon dessert in the back right had some cookie bits that surprised me in the second bite. The chocolate hazelnut was this ridiculously perfect combination of chewy, crispy and creamy. And, why yes, that glass with grapefruit purée does have wasabi marshmallows on top!

In the holiday spirit

If you ask me, one of the best things about Christmas is waking up and watching the snow fall outside your window, lying warm in your bed, knowing that there's nothing you have to do all day. Nothing you can do all day, aside from watch movies and eat Chinese food. This year, I figured this would all be the same, only without the snow. It hadn't snowed all month.

But when I woke up, I lifted my head, looked out the window, and there it was. It didn't last long. The snowflakes drifted by just long enough to get me into the holiday spirit and into the kitchen. I turned on a Christmas playlist (quietly, since I had house guests) and danced around my pantry, surveying my breakfast options. Belgian waffles. A frittata. Maybe I'd make some poffertjes. I looked at my flours, then to my sugars, and then I reached for the olive oil. We'll have bagels for breakfast. I'm making ice cream.

Olive oil ice cream. One of my house guests had requested it, and I'm glad she did. It has this creaminess that is so effortless and buttery. I hadn't made this flavor since July, and I was so excited about it that I started to sing "it's beginning to look a lot like ice cream" as it churned. Usually I'm alone when I change the words to make songs about ice cream, but this time I had friends around to point out what a big dork I am.

Lemon Olive Oil Ice Cream
Adapted from Jeni's Splendid Ice Cream.

There are lots of options with this ice cream. If you want a subtler lemon, you can leave out the lemon syrup. If you like poppyseeds, you can either mix them in at the end of churning or sprinkle them on top. Whatever you choose, use a high-quality olive oil, and the result will be delicious.

For lemon syrup:
1/4 cup lemon juice (1-2 lemons)
1 tablespoon sugar

For ice cream:
2 cups whole milk
1 tablespoon + 1 teaspoon cornstarch
3 tablespoons whipped cream cheese
1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
1 cup heavy cream
2/3 cup sugar
2 tablespoons light corn syrup
zest of 1 lemon
1/4 cup olive oil
optional: 2 tablespoons poppyseeds

Before you make the base...
- Remove the zest of two lemons in large strips with a vegetable peeler. Set the zest aside. Then, combine the measured lemon juice and sugar in a small sauce pan. Bring it to a simmer over medium heat, stirring until all of the sugar is dissolved. Pour into a bowl and let it cool in the fridge.
- In a small bowl, mix the cornstarch with 2 tablespoons of milk into a slurry.
- Measure out the whipped cream cheese and sea salt into a medium bowl (if you don't have whipped cream cheese, you can whisk the two together).

Then...
- In a medium saucepan, combine the cream, sugar, corn syrup, lemon zest, and remaining milk and bring to a rolling boil over medium-high heat. While you're waiting for it to boil, fill a large bowl with ice and cold water and set it aside. Boil the mixture for four minutes, keeping an eye on it so it doesn't boil over. Remove from heat and slowly add the cornstarch slurry, whisking constantly.
- Bring the mixture back to a boil, stirring frequently, and boil for approximately one minute, or until it's slightly thickened. Remove from heat and gradually whisk the hot mixture into the cream cheese, starting with a very small amount to make sure the mixture is perfectly smooth. Add the olive oil and whisk until fully incorporated.
- Pour the mixture into a 1-gallon Ziploc freezer bag, and place the bag in the prepared ice bath until fully cooled. This usually takes about 30 minutes, and you'll need to add more ice as it melts. If you don't want to churn the ice cream right away, you can cool the mixture in the fridge overnight.

Finally...
- Discard the lemon zest and pour the mixture into your frozen canister (I do so by cutting a hole in the bottom corner of the bag). Add the lemon syrup and churn according to your ice cream maker's instructions. Optional: In the last minute of churning, add poppyseeds. 
- Pack the ice cream into a quart-sized or two pint-sized containers, press parchment paper on top, and seal the container with an airtight lid. After 4+ hours in the freezer, your ice cream will be ready to eat.